Hugh Devlin died at age Monday, Oct. 9, at the age of 87.

I don’t remember the first time we went to Hughie’s. I can’t remember the last time we went to Hughie’s before it closed in 2000. Maybe 20, 30, or 40 times. Maybe more. It was Cheers before there was a Cheers. I loved the scampi, the ravioli, the garlic bread. And there was the Love Salad. Just iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, salami, sliced provolone, grated parmesan and garlic. Tons of garlic. Over the next years, other restaurants said they had the recipe, but they did not. I tried and failed, too. But when we talk about the legacy that is Hughie, we all remember the Love Salad. Thank goodness Hughie’s daughters know how to make the Love Salad and, unless you know all the daughters, the real Love Salad is only available at Muddy Water’s in New London, owned by daughter Susan Devlin Neistat and her husband, Barry. The food there is terrific, but whatever I order includes a Love Salad. Rest in peace, Hughie.

Muddy Water’s Cafe • 860-444-2232

42 Bank Street, New London, CT